Etching Tutorial: a Step by Step Guide to the Etching Process:
Tools and Materials> Preparing a Plate> Applying the Ground> Transfer Art> Working Plate> Etching> Inking and Printing
Applying the Ground or Rosin (Aquatinting):
Hard Ground - Hard ground is completely acid resistant. It is good for line work and stippling (them crazy dots). |
Soft Ground - Soft Ground is only semi-resistant to acid. It is good for putting textures on to the plate. This is corduroy. The outline, done first, with hard ground. | Rosin - Rosin is used for aquatinting. Aquatinting is good for shading and darkening. Again, the outline, done first, with hard ground. Just started using this. | ||
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| Liquid Ground - Both hard and soft ground can be bought in liquid form:the "air-dry stuff". Just paint it on and you're rip rarin' to go! | Ball Ground - Both hard and soft ground can be bought in solid form. Harder to apply but arguably better (less flaking than dry liquid) I am still experimenting with ground. | Rosin - Bought in lump form. Must be powdered. I powdered some with hammer and freezer bag. Rosin is sticky so be careful with the stuff. | ||
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*Before applying the ground or rosin, I wipe the plate using a bit of paper towel and a few drops of mineral spirits. Be sure to get any finger prints off and any oil left over from burnishing.
Liquid Ground - Liquid ground is easy to use and doesn't require cleaning a brayer. Just brush it on. Drys in no time! It is also good for stopping out areas you no longer wish to bitten by the acid when using the acid bath. It can also be used over soft ground or aquatint for targeted effects.
Hard Ball Ground - The solid ground needs a bit more work than the air-dry stuff.
The plate needs to be heated, using the hotplate - right around 200d.
The ball ground will melt on contact with the hot zinc plate.
I then use a soft brayer to smooth the ground out over the hot plate. Since the brayer is kind of a pain in the ass to clean, I usually do a couple plates when using the hard ball stuff.
Aquatint - Aquatint uses rosin powder. It is commonly applied with a rosin bag or aquatint box. I only have a bag. Look towards the internet for box building instructions! I just started using this process so I am still learning and experimenting.
With some powdered rosin, a couple pieces of tarleton, and using Ruth Leaf's book as a guide, I made a rosin bag.
Tap the rosin bag over the area of the plate you want to aquating (maybe the whole thing). This will leave a thin layer of rosin poder on the surface of the plate.
Gently heat the plate until the rosin starts to liquify. This will fix the rosin to the plate.
Wait...don't stop now, it's just gettin' good. "Working Plate", the page after next, will show how these grounds are used! And it is exciting! unless you are some reckless free thinking, free etchin' artist...and not a diciplined craftsman such as myself, though wretched I may be, we need to transfer our well thought out composition to the plate so we can meticulously work it out!
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